Hea artikkel Cadillaci suurte mootorite ehitamisest.

[ain]

Taking on GM's Big-Cube Engines

By Doc Frohmader, restoration contributor

While some engines are relatively rare in performance and engine machine shops, the big Cadillacs have remained a consistent source of income for these businesses. These engines are Cadillac’s last hurrah at traditional big-cube, flagship GM engines. Surprisingly, they are also a scaled-down version of a V12 engine that made it through early production and road-testing before being scrapped as a result of EPA and CAFE regulations. (Like the old saying goes — timing is everything.)

The big-cube powerplant is a relatively low-rpm engine, designed primarily to take advantage of large quantities of torque and run quiet and smooth, which has always been Cadillac’s goal. Today, these engines are being built for restorations, but increasingly more often for distinctly non-stock applications. A source of relatively cheap basic power, they’ve found themselves in drag racing, air-boating and even trucking. There are a lot of performance parts available for them including several stroker kits and even a set of bad boy aluminum heads. Both stock and performance variations of pistons are available. In other words, a sufficiently large enough demand was created to make the aftermarket sit up and take notice. Now it’s up to you to use that information to benefit your business.

The problem with all this lies in the fact that it is not a small block Chevrolet. What I mean is that when performance is discussed among the uninformed, all engines tend to be lumped into the same pile. People expect that just because it works on a Chevy, it will automatically work on another, completely different engine series. This is no truer than when it comes to the big Caddys. I can guarantee you that if you build one like a Small Block Chevy (SBC), you will not like the results.

Difference in Design
One primary reason for this is the basic engineering concepts employed by both. The SBC is designed to be a relatively fast-revving engine, often accommodating a 3,000 rpm-plus cruise and bursts well above 5,000. It relies on horsepower developed through rpm.

The Caddy engines are designed for torque production at lower rpm. A cruise rpm of 1,800-2,200 is common. Spinning them over 4,000 in stock condition is chancy, and while you can modify the Cadillacs to spin faster, it is not cheap and it involves more than just heavier valve springs. So be warned: A smart builder will not be tempted to confuse the Cadillacs with Chevrolets and spec out parts that aren’t appropriate.

So, you ask, what does work when it comes to reusing these engines? The answer is not a pat thing and you will always have variations and applications requiring special modifications. In fact, I see building Cadillacs as falling into categories — restoration, street performance, trucks, boats and race.

For serious racing, it takes a significant amount of modification to make them truly competitive. While this can and has been done, the effort is too complex to cover in this article, so I’ll duck it for now. In fact, for most shops the major interest is going to be for relatively stock engines or engines with modest, streetable modifications. For these applications, a great deal can be said that will give you a leg up on a successful build.

As you would expect, all the required parts to rebuild and restore these engines are readily available. There are a number of internal engine component makers that can supply you with quality parts in almost every variation, so for the stock/restoration build, you can rest easy over parts availability. If you need something exotic, such as custom pistons, even those can be ordered from most suppliers these days.

Out with the Old…
Like any vintage engine, hindsight allows us a chance to reassess and modify the original production engine. This is certainly true with the big-inch Cadillacs. I recommend several upgrades to any Caddy you are building. Throw away the OEM-style nylon valve seals. Over time they get brittle, fall apart and contaminate the oil supply. I’ve used both modern umbrella seals and positive seals as replacements with excellent results. As a rule, I prefer the positive seals for all the obvious reasons, but you may not always get the customer to OK the extra cost. In conjunction with this, I have had great success using bronze valve guide liners instead of any iron replacement.

Throw the original type nylon-coated timing set as far as you can. These things should only be used in classrooms as examples of a very bad engineering exercise gone horribly wrong. While they work fine for a while, you will rarely see an engine equipped with them free of a crankcase full of nylon debris. They don’t last, and as they die, they foul the oil system. If you find them, don’t use them. (Note: Melling has a fine set with a cast iron cam gear and a heat-treated sintered iron crank gear along with a standard link chain.) Plus, there are aftermarket roller chains available, so check out your favorite supplier catalog.

The stock or stock replacement valves are fine and there really are no major issues except for sunken seats. Obviously, damaged seats need repair and the root cause corrected. But these heads suffer from a problem rampant in similar vintage production. The way I see it is that when the no-lead fuels were introduced, it quickly became evident that hardened seats were going to be a requirement. Rather than going with inserts, the OEMs began induction-hardening the seat areas. Early on, it was found that if the seats were hardened to too great a depth they would crack. The fix was to strive for a depth of something like 0.050” to the hardened material.

Unfortunately, this type of hardening is not so infinitely controllable as to make it perfectly uniform. The practical result was quite interesting. First, the vast majority of the original engines never had a problem with sunken seats. The original hardening was quite enough to protect them. Most problems arose when the seats were ground. Spots or areas where the hardening was thin were machined away or reduced to the point where the seats became soft and would not last. I’ve seen where an entire set sucked right up in just a couple thousand miles.

The safe solution from my perspective is to simply install hard seats in all the exhausts. Yes, it will add to the cost, but since the problem is documented, why take chances? You can be assured that most engines of this vintage share the same kind of issue.

Off Your Rocker
Rocker arms are also a sore spot for these engines. These days, according to a Caddy-fluent remanufacturer I know, it takes up to eight or 10 full sets to get 16 useable OEM rockers! For all practical purposes this puts them in the category of “unobtainium.” The solution is to go with an aftermarket shaft-style setup, all of which seem to be built by Rocker Arm Specialist. Last I checked, the basic version using a stamped Buick rocker cost something like $250 a set, so while it’s an additional cost, it is not outrageous or a deal killer. A stronger set using Ford rockers and roller billet aluminum sets also are available if you need them. A real advantage to this is that the engine will be able to better handle higher rpm than before.

The thing is, just the rockers won’t make the Cadillac a high-rev engine. Cadillac designed what it needed for the cars it produced and with gear ratios of either 2.41 or 2.71:1 and 78-series tires they ran low rpm. About the time you drop a 500 in a pickup with 3.73 gears, you create a lot of complications. You can run a set of stock valve springs if you want, but they have very light seat pressure (60 lbs.) and light open pressure. So, for extended use over 3,000 rpm, I recommend you’ll need an upgrade.

And, as a rule, don’t re-use springs. Equally important is to not go overboard. Stock Cadillac lifters will not support a heavy spring, can be noisy and often collapse overnight if used. There are replacement lifters from Chevrolet applications that work fine. Make sure you check the lifter preload when you make any of these changes.

When building for a non-stock application, make sure you also have supporting ignition and carburetion. The GM High Energy Ignition (HEI) units are notorious for wearing out. They can be rebuilt and aftermarket units including billet HP units are available. A bad one or one with an incorrect advance curve will drive you crazy and make your customer pull out his hair. The only place a stock unit with a stock advance curve seems to work is in restoration engines. In my experience, all others will require changes.

Fuel Delivery
Carburetors are no less tricky than some of the other components we’ve discussed. The Q-Jets used on the Caddy engines are fine and operate well until those rpm range changes are included. The best current theory as to why a Caddy will perform perfectly in a stock setup but fail miserably in a truck has to do with calibration. These carbs were designed for use with heavy smog control and were lean from the factory to accommodate the EPA requirements. Change the operating rpm range and vehicle characteristics and suddenly you have a carb that won’t work. So far I’ve found that increasing jets from two to four sizes is a good start, but that you’ll have to play with each one to get it right. Meanwhile, building an engine that will be using an incorrectly calibrated carb could be a nightmare of overheating, burned valves and fried pistons. Make sure you communicate clearly with your customer to protect yourself from this. And get it in writing so you won’t assume responsibility for wrecking a perfectly good engine with a bad installation.

Taking a Lot of Heat
Speaking of heat, one issue you need to recognize is that these engines will almost never run at 180°. I have never seen one to run at less than 210° and often see them running fine at 220° or 230°. These engines employ thin-wall, hard alloy block castings and they transfer heat more rapidly than softer cast, thicker-walled blocks. While I certainly support oil coolers, high-capacity fans and large radiators to mitigate heat issues, don’t chase your tail trying to do what for all practical purposes can’t be done and serves no essential purpose.

However, because of this you will find that Cadillacs can be detonation sensitive. Again, for all practical purposes, this creates limits. While it is possible to go higher, I’ve found that when you get over about 8.5:1 compression you are playing at the limits of compression for street uses. Cooling the engine down, adding a cold air intake, altering the cam profile and even the aftermarket aluminum heads are part of a high-compression regimen.

Intake manifolds are interesting. For street use, you really only have the stock items or the Edelbrock Performer. As ugly and squat as the stock intakes are, they are also the best choice for many street uses. The Performer works well, but it is a better choice when running at higher rpm. It will raise the horsepower and torque ranges, but have little effect on peak numbers. Obviously this changes when higher-end performance modifications are factored in.

Cams are no less an issue. It seems as if everyone has their own version of what works best. To tell the truth, I suspect that too often cams are sold on a basis of what was available or what worked on some other engine rather than being tailored for your specific needs. I’ve found that for trucks, stockers and milder street versions, a very conservative cam seems to work well. My favorite truck cam runs 218° at 0.050”, for example. Interestingly, going for a longer duration cam will allow you to run more compression and reap more power, but it costs in fuel mileage considerably. You will probably want to design the engine to suit the needs of the customer in terms of rpm range, vehicle, and expectations for performance and economy.

Finally, most of these engines will use the stock crank, rods and stock-style pistons. The cranks are cast and have no history of failures even when used in harsh or high-performance applications. Rods are cast nodular and are bulky but also do a yeoman’s job. Pistons were once hard to find, but as stated, some suppliers offer a full selection of cast stock replacements and hypereutectic performance pistons for those who want to step it up. Other piston suppliers have shorter lines of replacement product for specific engines.

In summation, Cadillacs (like most vintage engines) have their own unique characteristics and design. The vast majority of common uses are best served by considering these and incorporating them into a successful build, rather than trying to recreate or re-shape the engine to do what it was not designed for. For example, you wouldn’t want to try to convert a Chevy V6 into a diesel for a school bus, even though it is theoretically possible because of practical and economic limits. In the case of the big-inch Cadillacs, building practical and economical variations generally means working with the cubic inches and stock head designs to produce a low to medium rpm engine with gobs of torque.

[ain]

Taat on kirjutanud ka väga asjaliku raamatu: Big Inch Cadillac. by Doc Frohmader
Kõigile suurte mootorite ehitajatele kohustuslik kirjandus.

[MiL472]

Hankisin endalegi raamatu "Big Inch Cadillac". Teen siin vaikselt luuret, mis suunas tulevikus asja arendada. Muide, palju on Eestis, või siis siin foorumis neid, kes oma 472/500 mootori ehitamisel performance juppe on kasutanud ja üritavad natuke rohkem powerit ja väänet saada, või on valdavalt lihtsalt stock jubinatega rebuild tehtud?

[DevilDeville]

veel üks asine lugu: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0 ... index.html

505-Inch Pump-Gas Cadillac Engine - Full-Frontal Cadillac
Going The Road Less Traveled With A 505-Inch, 628HP Pump-Gas Caddy.
By Daryl White
Photography by Johnny Hunkins

505 Cadillac Engine Engine

When John Walker builds an engine, he builds it in style. Cadillac style. John is one of those rare few who think outside the box and dare to go where few have tread. When asked how he got into the luxobarge powerplants, he chuckled and said it was by accident. Several years ago, he was in the middle of a trade deal and was supposed to get a 454 for his end of the bargain. When it came time to collect, the Chevy engine was a no-show. Instead, he was offered a pair of Cadillac engines. "Of course, I had to pull them," he says.

As he started building more power from the Caddys, he found the aftermarket lacking, so he started making his own parts. This 505ci monster that he built for the 2007 Jegs Engine Masters Challenge is not so much a tribute to GM's highest luxury line as it is a showcase of the parts that John (through his company Torque Inc. and a few other daring companies like MTS) have created for the engine family. Over the last several years, new heads, cams, intakes, rods, and pistons have found their way into the Cadillac engines that Torque offers. This 505 is a good mix of those parts.

When building an engine of this caliber, it takes a good plan to hold up to the abusive torque that the engine makes. The engineers at GM had a few of the bases covered on this point. John used a factory 500-inch block from a generic mid-'70s Caddy. He could have used either the 472 or 500 block built from 1968 to 1976, as they share the same dimensions other than stroke and piston compression height.

505 Cadillac Engine John Walker Don Harisson
Prior to dropping the hammer at the Engine Masters Challenge, John Walker and Don Harrison of Torque Inc. double-check everything to make sure the valvetrain (the most vulnerable system for Challenge engines) is working perfectly.

There are positives and negatives to the factory block. The small cam tunnel limits the cam dimensions. Choosing a cam with big lift means grinding the base circle smaller, instead of making the lobes bigger. This weakens the cam core, and in a contest where running a factory-style cast-iron core for a flat-tappet cam is mandatory, that can be bad news. On the positive side, John is a big fan of the on-center connecting rods. He explained that almost all V-8 engines use offset rods, meaning the small end of the rod is not directly in line with the big end. The Cadillac, like the newer LSx engines, uses a rod that's directly in line. "We had it right all along," John says, referring to the rod design. His argument was that running an on-center rod will keep the force from the combustion process firmly centered at the base of the rod instead of trying to tip it over and side load it. John often has Scat build several sets of rods at a time, so when it came time to order a set of seven-inchers for the engine, it was no problem for his normal supplier to comply. For many high-horsepower combinations, billet main caps and/or main girdles help keep the caps from walking. In this case, the factory caps-accompanied by a set of ARP main studs-were easily able to handle the forces in play.

Cadillacs, like their Pontiac cousins, have a lifter valley with a massive hole that sits wide open and allows oil to rain down onto the cam and crank. "It's got a great big section in the middle you can stick your hand in." Not bad if you want to make sure oil gets splashed all over creation, but bad news if you are trying to reduce windage. John made a metal block-off plate and welded it into place. After installing that, he installed some plastic plugs in the lifter holes, made some breather stands, and filled the lifter valley with epoxy. He says the red goo was "a high-temperature epoxy coating that they put on the inside of hot water pumps, like in a nuclear plant. Nothing sticks to it." As for prepping, John says after a good washing he "put Sikkens primer on the valley as soon as it dried, so it wouldn't rust up. That stuff is designed to have an epoxy coating put on top of it."

Like the block, the crank was a factory piece. All 472/500 engines used cast-iron cranks, but as usual, there are some good and bad castings. OK, Maybe not bad castings, but not as totally bombproof. The cream of the crop is the 094 nodular-iron crank from the '70-71 cars that weighs a good 9 pounds more than the more common ones. The unit John used here was one of the plain-Jane versions from the mid-'70s that he claims holds up fine. This must be the case, as his huge engine made over 600 hp and 600 lb-ft of torque! He had the specialists at Shaftech give the crank the full tune-up, including cutting down the counterweights and balancing before installation.

505 Cadillac Engine Csr Chevy Style Water Pump
John showed off some of his creativity by adapting a CSR Chevy-style electric water pump to fit the Caddy engine. The MTS harmonic damper up front does a much better job of protecting the crank than any of the 30-year-old OEM dampers.

Torque Inc. is one of the few suppliers of forged pistons for GM's luxury engines. They keep a good supply on hand and have them made by either Diamond or Probe. In this case, Diamond whipped up a set of forgings with a fairly common .043/.043/3mm ring pack and an uncommon dish design. For lack of a better term, we'll refer to this as the "Altoids box" dish. There have been different schools of thought in piston dishes recently. Some use a traditional inverted dome, some use a spherical dish, and there are some using a "dual quench" design like the Torque Inc. engine. John told PHR: "Since the aluminum head is a little different than the iron head, there's actually quench on both sides of the combustion chamber. I saw what the Sprint Cup guys have been doing, and what some of the piston companies have been doing for pistons with heads similar to the Cadillac, and figured I might as well put all the dish in the middle to even the quench out on both sides. I don't know that it helps, but it certainly lightens that piston a bunch." Any time you can get a big-bore piston down to a measly 579 grams, it takes a tremendous load off the beam of the rod and frees up horsepower in the crank that isn't trying to throw a big weight around.

John had the piston skirts coated with a low-friction, oil-shedding coating, and the tops coated to keep the heat in the chambers. Normally, Cadillacs use a massive 1-inch wrist pin, but in this case, it was knocked down to a lighter big-block Chevy size. The rings were Speed Pro file fits, and as the bore size was fairly common to big-block Chevy numbers, they were easy to get a hold of. John says many of his engines are built this way to keep the cost down. Using a .020-inch oversize piston instead of a .030 oversize really opens up the availability of inexpensive rings.

The Torque Inc. engine used a set of uncoated Clevite main bearings. There is not a tremendous selection of undersize bearings available for the big Caddy, but Clevite has always managed to keep a good variety for rebuilders. In years past, John had become a fan of the legendary Vandevell bearings for connecting rods. Their lead-indium overlay allows them to absorb a good amount of debris and still be very forgiving on the journals. As far as hardness, they lie somewhere between a typical Clevite H-series and their super-malleable M-series microbabbit bearings. Clevite does offer their take on the Vandevell bearings, known as the V-series; however, when the Vandevell company went the way of the Dodo bird, Childs and Albert began to reproduce the bearings to the exact specifications as the originals. John picked up a set of those for use in this buildup, and was quite pleased with the results.

When it came time to work on the oil system, John acquired a Melling pump and immediately tore into it. Using 3M diamond files, he meticulously deburred any sharp edges on the case and gears, as well as sleeving and honing the pressure relief plunger cylinder. His diligent work showed as the oil pressure stayed steady during his dyno pulls, averaging 51-52psi. The only change in pressure was a slight rise and subsequent fall between 2,800-3,800rpm. This range is typically when detonation problems occur, so the extra pressure was not shunned. Whether this was by intelligent design or divine intervention is still unclear. John does feel there is an inherent design flaw in the OEM-style pump. "I think the design of that oil pump has a tendency to turn the oil into foam. The rotor design is identical to a Buick, and they have nothing but oiling problems, especially when you spin them over 4,800 or 5,000. All of a sudden everything just starts going haywire. We've designed a new oil pump; we just need to find a way to make them inexpensive." When asked whether he would prefer a gerotor pump, he expressed his dilemma: "The pump is in the front, and most of the pans are either a mid-rear or rear sump, so you've got that stupid, ungodly-long pick-up that's on a really bad angle. If I went to a gerotor, that's fine, as long as somebody wants to use some sort of a pre-oiler, because the one thing that's bad about a gerotor pump is they don't want to self-prime."
The fabricators at ProPan built the custom oil pan for John's engine out of aluminum, and were able to incorporate a full-length kick-out to absorb some of the oil that was whipped around in the crankcase. The final element of the oil system was the K&N oil filter that traps microscopic particles.

Besides the big camshaft companies, there are a few smaller shops that offer custom cams. One of these is Dougherty Racing Cams (DRC), a small company in Northern California that John has trusted for his customers, and his own engines. Besides the cams on the Torque Inc. website, John mentioned that he has at least 50 other cams that he has used successfully. For those wanting to build really big power, he said: "We do rollers; they're just ungodly expensive right now. We're making hydraulic roller camshaft cores to bring the motors into the 1980s." John Dougherty, the man behind the cam grinding machine, has been grinding cams for two decades, and has worked alongside some of the most respected names in the cam world before striking out on his own. DRC put together a solid flat-tappet cam for the Torque Inc. entry that took advantage of the high-flowing exhaust ports, ending up with the same duration and lift on intake and exhaust. Though the cam was not nitrided, the tool steel lifters and aggressive lobes managed to survive the abusive environment. Torque Inc. offers a modified Cloyes roller timing set to spin the big Caddy's cam, but was tight-lipped about what changes had to be made to adapt to this uncommon engine.

Anyone who's spent more than 10 minutes trying to hop up a Cadillac finds out quickly that if you want to use factory heads, you only have two choices: The early model pre-smog heads have relatively decent 76cc chambers yielding a little over 10:1 compression, and the '74-76 smog heads have lame 126cc chambers with an 8.5:1 compression ratio. Bulldog cylinder heads gained a reputation over the last few years as a company building heads for the black sheep of the American car manufacturers. Not too long ago, they began offering a head for the Cadillac engine that was the answer to John Walker's prayers. Cast in aluminum, these heads offer big valves, efficient combustion chambers, and, of course, high-flowing runners. As John was progressing in the build of his engine, his friends at Maximum Torque Specialties (MTS) were progressing in their bid to become the foremost manufacturer of aftermarket Cadillac performance parts. As such, they acquired the design rights to the Bulldog heads and intake manifolds for Caddy engines in the middle of 2007. With the desire to improve an already great product, Paul and Marty at MTS enlisted the help of Torque Inc. to aid in redesigning the old heads and intakes. John's personal touch is seen in the new MTS heads and intakes being cast now. They will be switching the aluminum to a better grade, downsizing the runners for better performance, and offering them bare or fully assembled with one-piece stainless valves.
The Bulldog/MTS heads on John's engine were given a good amount of attention. Lightweight hollow-stem valves reduced the tendency of the lifter to shoot off the nose of the cam at max lift, while allowing the valves to seat with minimal bounce. Using coated PSI valvesprings and titanium retainers certainly helped ensure the stability of the valvetrain. Cadillacs are blessed with a 12-degree valve angle that allows for an efficient combustion chamber. The steep angle also promotes excellent flow numbers when treated with an appropriate amount of port work. When asked about flow numbers, John says: "They went 345 at .650 on the intake, and 268 at .650 without a pipe on the exhaust." Those are definitely numbers that promote big horsepower. T&D shaft rockers are all designed for a specific head, and in this case, the 1.8 ratio pieces functioned perfectly. They included a set-up tool that allows the engine builder to discover the correct valvetrain geometry easily and set pushrod length correctly.

The Bulldog-branded intake manifold's design was purchased by MTS. John took the design even further by adding a significant amount of epoxy to the floor of the plenum, as well as reshaping the carb flange from an open box to a cloverleaf design. The clover design tends to increase signal strength to the carb, and really helps get the fuel flowing correctly at low rpm. This design is extremely close to what the new MTS intake casting will be, minus the inch of epoxy on the plenum floor. CSU prepared the big 1050 Holley Dominator that sits atop the intake.

Another of the showcase items John had on display was the electric water pump he offers. Starting with a CSR center section from a big- or small-block Chevy, he makes his own end pieces, as they just bolt onto the center section. Voil, an electric water pump for your early '70s El Dorado!

The only other item drawing electricity on this beast was the ignition system, and what a system it is. Ignition Components and Electronics (ICE) is an Australian-based company that's been taking the hot rodding and racing world by storm. They've created three levels of ignition systems (6, 7, and 10 amp) that put out significantly more joules of energy than other similar systems. The 6- and 7-amp systems are common for street, strip, or circle track applications, while the big 10-amp setup was designed for forced-induction and alcohol engines that are notoriously difficult to keep lit. Typically, a naturally aspirated pump-gas engine like the big dude that John Walker built doesn't call for a 10-amp ignition, but overkill be damned, he put it on there, and it worked perfectly. The system used a billet aluminum Hall-effect distributor that's proven to be more accurate than a magnetic trigger distributor. Extremely simple wiring connects a voltage booster pumping out 24 volts to the ignition box, again a simple design with a built-in adjustable rev limiter, and a two-step for drag racing. The coil and plug wires are equally high-quality pieces.

Once all the Shell 91 octane was ingested, it was spit out through a set of custom headers built by the Fab Shop in Indianapolis. John couldn't find enough good things to say about the quality of their work. Running a set of two-inch primaries, they dumped into a set of three-inch Howe Racing merge collectors. Once only found in the upper echelon of NASCAR and Pro Stock, merge collectors have found their way into the sportsman racing world with prices decreasing and availability increasing. Ten years ago, an engine like this 505 would probably have had 2.5-inch primaries dumping into four-inch collectors. The use of energy by the merge collectors and a rethinking of how exhaust works have brought a major decrease in the size of exhaust systems. John's efficient system was able to successfully scavenge the exhaust gasses without creating a restriction in the system.

When this creation finally came to life on the dyno, the remainder of the Engine Masters Challenge competitors expected to see some big power numbers from this seasoned competitor. They were not disappointed. Even with the restrictions imposed by the EMC, John and Torque Inc. created a bombproof, mega-power combination using common sense and a little bit of ingenuity. "I want people to know that this motor is basically the motor we build for everybody." Can you imagine the reality of dropping a 607 lb-ft monster in your Caddy? With the availability of Cadillac engines still fairly good, and now some nice parts hitting the market, it might be about time to rethink the old formula before you build your next project. When it's time for that first rolling burnout, you can do it in style. Cadillac style!

BY THE NUMBERS
TORQUE INC. 505CI CADILLAC
Bore: 4.320-inch
Stroke: 4.304-inch
Displacement: 505 cubic inches
Compression ratio: 10.5:1
Camshaft: DRC solid flat-tappet
Cam duration: 258/258 degrees
at .050-inch tappet rise
Valve lift: . .630-inch
Rocker ratio: T&D 1.8 ratio shaft rockers
Lobe separation: 112 degrees
Installed centerline: 110 degrees
Top ring: .043-inch Speed Pro barrel face
Second ring: .063 Speed Pro scraper
Oil ring: 3mm
Piston: Diamond center dish forged
Block: OEM Cadillac 500
Crankshaft: OEM Cadillac 500
Rods: Scat/MTS 7.000-inch H-beam
Main journal: 3.240-inch
Rod Journal: 2.490-inch
Cylinder head: MTS/Bulldog
Intake valve diameter: 2.250-inch
Exhaust valve diameter: 1.860-inch
Intake manifold: MTS/Bulldog single-plane
Carburetor: CSU modified Holley 1050 Dominator
Header: Fab Shop 2-inch primaries;
3.5-inch merge collector
Ignition: ICE Ignition 10 amp
Damper: MTS
Water pump: MTS/Torque Inc.

On The Dyno Dts Dyno Data Torque Inc. 505CI Cadillac

RPM TQ HP
2,500 488 232
2,600 493 244
2,700 493 254
2,800 490 261
2,900 484 267
3,000 478 273
3,100 474 280
3,200 474 289
3,300 476 299
3,400 477 309
3,500 484 322
3,600 502 344
3,700 526 370
3,800 552 399
3,900 569 422
4,000 578 440
4,100 585 457
4,200 594 475
4,300 598 490
4,400 601 503
4,500 602 516
4,600 604 529
4,700 607 543
4,800 607 555
4,900 605 564
5,000 601 572
5,100 595 578
5,200 590 584
5,300 583 588
5,400 577 594
5,500 575 602
5,600 575 613
5,700 572 621
5,800 568 628
5,900 558 627
6,000 547 625
6,100 536 623
6,200 526 620
6,300 516 619
6,400 508 619
6,500 500 618

[ain]

muideks, see mootor on müügis - vähemalt paar kuud tagasi veel oli.
MTS peaks seda müüma, on ju John nendega ühinenud.

[MiL472]

Kas keegi oskab lihtsalt ära seletada miks vahetatakse points type distributor HEI vastu kui moditakse?

[ain]

kontaktid kuluvad, kontaktivahe muutub, nõrgem säde.
HEI-l on lisaks ka süütepool jagaja kaane all.