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N* WOT test jutt (poolitatud N* mootori teemast)
Posted: 18 Jan 2009, 00:20
by mty
SAABOTSKA: Nüüd aga on selline lugu et hommikul külmaga (-10) käivitad mootori ja siis see teeb umbes 20 sekundit sellist natuke paha häält ( klopib nagu kergelt ) ja kütusekulu on tõusnud kergelt, samuti õlikulu ja mootor on ka lekkima hakanud. Minu järeldus sellest et comma on s*tt õli. Milline õli ikkagi sinna paremini sobib? Leidsin kapoti alt ka mingi vanema kleepsu et kunagi on keegi sinna mootorisse valanud mobili 5w40-et.
MTY: lase korra(st paar korda ajapeale veerandmiil vms) torud puhtaks, pidavat aitama....
Re: Kogu tõde Northstari mootorist.
Posted: 18 Jan 2009, 00:45
by saabotska
Seda ma tean ja seda ma teen ka

kuigi jah kui hakata meenutama siis pole seda juba jupp aega teinud, viimasel ajal suht libedad teeolud
Re: Kogu tõde Northstari mootorist.
Posted: 18 Jan 2009, 00:57
by Kristjan
mty wrote:lase korra(st paar korda ajapeale veerandmiil vms) torud puhtaks, pidavat aitama....
AB väitis, et see pidi jumala loll jutt olema...
Re: Kogu tõde Northstari mootorist.
Posted: 18 Jan 2009, 01:05
by ain
siin kahjuks ma nendega ei nõustu.
Tegu on pöördemootoriga aga enamus ajast istub ta 1900...2400 pöörde vahemikus. Endal pole ühtegi õli võtvat N* olnud, muidu oleks hea testi teha, kuidas õlikulu kaob.
Ma isegi ei viitsi otsida välja vastavaid jutte ja põhjendusi netist. Kel huvi, teeb seda ise.
Vaba maa, igaüks usub mida tahab
Edit - tegu pole lihtsalt paar korda pöörete üles ajamisega, vaja on ka mootoriga hoog taas maha pidurdada - see on asi, mis rõngad puhastab ja silindriseina vastu surub. Täpne õpetus siin kuskil olemas, kes otsib, see leiab.
Re: Kogu tõde Northstari mootorist.
Posted: 18 Jan 2009, 01:34
by mty
ain wrote:...Ma isegi ei viitsi otsida välja vastavaid jutte ja põhjendusi netist...
mina viitsisin
Occasional Full-Throttle Acceleration Is Good For Your Engine (check this discussion for references): (back to the top)
There are many advantages to occasional full throttle accelerations with a Northstar and any engine.
It keeps the carbon cleaned out of the combustion chamber. This is maybe a little more important with the Northstar than some other engines due to the tight squish volumes between the piston and the cylinder head. It's designed this way to promote good in-cylinder mixture motion (good combustion) but it has the down side of providing a ready place for carbon build-up to touch the piston - causing noise. Ever heard of the Northstar "cold carbon rap" problem?? Simply put you'll hear a rythmic, piston slap-like noise when the engine is cold. Very prominent and very annoying. Cause: excessive carbon build up causing the the piston to contact the carbon on the head - causing it to rock in the bore and "slap" Much more evident when the engine is cold and the pistons haven't expanded to full diameter yet. Simplest and easiest "fix" for this: A few good WOT (wide open throttle) accelerations to clear the carbon out. That is all it takes to eliminate the problem and prevent it from re-occurring.
Occasional WOT accelerations also help seat the rings to the ring lands and exercise the rings and keep them mobile and from becoming stuck in carbon in the ring lands. At high RPM and WOT the rings move around on the piston - they actually rotate on the piston and will polish away any carbon and seat themselves to the sides of the ring grooves. This is especially important on the 2000 and later Northstars which had hard anodized top ring lands on the pistons. Very hard and wear resistant - also harder to break-in and seat the rings to the sides of the ring-lands to promote the best possible seal. Many oil consumption complaints on the 2000 and later engines are related, to some extent, with the rings never seating to the sides of the ring-grooves due to lack of load as the engine was babied around forever. Even engines with rings stuck in the ring-grooves due to carbon build up can eventually be freed up with enough high RPM operation.
WOTs warm up the engine thoroughly and clean out the exhaust due to temperature in the exhaust and high flow rates blasting particles, rust and such out of the system.
Frequent WOT operation will not hurt the engine or the transmission. They're designed for that. The healthiest engines that I have seen at high miles are always the ones that are run the hardest. Rings are free on the pistons and sealing; no carbon buildup.
The exercise that I think works best for many things is to select manual 2nd gear on an isolated stretch of expressway. This takes the transmission shifting out of the question if you are worried about hurting it. Start at 55 MPH or so and go to WOT in 2nd gear and hold it until the RPM reaches near the normal shift point - i.e. 6500 for an L37 and 6000 for an LD8. Hold the throttle wide open until the engine reaches, say, 6200 for an STS and then just let completely off the throttle. Leave the transmission in 2nd so that the engine brakes the car and creates some pretty heavy over-run conditions at high vacuum levels. Let it slow until it is about 55 or so and then go to WOT again and repeat. This exercise really loads the rings, allows variable RPM operation at WOT for several seconds continuously, creates heavy over-run which tends to unload the rings and make them move and thus exercise them in the ring grooves and it will blow-out carbon and the exhaust - all without creating a spectical of yourself and attracting the attention of cops. You can do it on most any freeway and stay within the 70-75 MPH range allowable. Once a week like this will keep the engine cleaned out and healthy and is DEFINITELY recommended for the Northstar in particular.
The Northstar engine was designed/developed/validated to be run hard. It was expected that people would use the performance of the engine - which few people seem to do. The biggest single problem that many issues stem from is lack of use at full throttle by the owners. It just doesn't like to be babied around. The rings are low-tension by design for good high RPM operating characteristics and low friction/good power. They work best if "used" and kept free.
In every conversation with owners I have had, once the owner started doing the WOTs and using the power of the engine they report no more carbon rap, better oil economy, no "smoke" when they do light it up (keep the exhaust cleaned out. If you notice a "cloud" at WOT then you are not doing enough WOTs...) etc... A bit of judicious use of the other end of the throttle travel is a GOOD thing...
Re: Kogu tõde Northstari mootorist.
Posted: 19 Jan 2009, 16:09
by saabotska
See peaks siis see rottide ja ämbliku võrkude eemaldamise juhend olema:
The proper WOT procedure is
1) Fully warmed up engine on highway that you can vary your speed on
2) Tranny in 2nd gear
3) At 40 mph, WOT to 70
4) take foot off gas and allow the tranny gear to slow the car down to 40
5) repeat 10 times
WOT= Wide Open Throttle
mty-l sama asi kirjas

krt. Ei tea kohe kas julgeb sellist asja teha, ikkagi 230 000 juba kellal ja teab palju seda keritud veel on.
Re: Kogu tõde Northstari mootorist.
Posted: 19 Jan 2009, 17:14
by Kristjan
Wide Open Throttle = lapats vasta põrandat ?
Re: N* WOT test jutt (poolitatud N* mootori teemast)
Posted: 19 Jan 2009, 21:51
by saabotska
Nonii, tehtud! Proovisin 3 korda, eks siis hommikul käima pannes ole kuulda kas kloppimine on alles. Mootor hakkas peale seda küll ühtlasemalt tööle
Ega ma olen viimasel ajal sõitnud nagu pensionär, sõidan kogu aeg ainult maanteel ja pöörded üle 3500 tavaliselt ei lähe.
Re: N* WOT test jutt (poolitatud N* mootori teemast)
Posted: 19 Jan 2009, 22:11
by Kristjan
Ootan vähe soojemat ilma siis proovin ka...
Märja ilmagagi kui põhja vajutada kisub auto trajektoorilt välja, julmalt on ikka asjal jõudu

Re: N* WOT test jutt (poolitatud N* mootori teemast)
Posted: 19 Jan 2009, 22:24
by ain
libedaga jama jah. Ise tavaliselt Pärnu mnt-l liikudes wotitan - hea lai tee ja suht puhas ka alati.
Re: N* WOT test jutt (poolitatud N* mootori teemast)
Posted: 19 Jan 2009, 23:02
by saabotska
Libe jah krt, veojõukontroll toimetas kogu aeg ja muudkui rebis rooli aga tehtud sai