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Foorum on lukus See teema on suletud, sa ei saa muuta postitusi või postitada rohkem vastuseid.  [ 1 postitus ] 
Autor Sõnum
PostitusPostitatud: 30 Juun 2007, 10:35 
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Liitunud: 01 Nov 2005, 21:11
Postitusi: 5492
Asukoht: Tallinn
Skype Kasutaja: eldorado67
1969 olid Cadillacidel kasutusel uuematest erinevad esikettad, mis praegu mucho dinero maksavad. Õnneks on USAS kodanikud välja pakkunud swapi uuemate ketaste vastu, millede hind rahakotisõbralikum on...

Fitting a ’69 Cadillac with Later Model One-piece Disc Rotors. By Bruce Reynolds


For those of you with Cadillacs that have the early Two-piece Disc Rotors on the front, you will find that when you come to replace them, their cost is extremely high. I had the same dilemma when I was replacing the completely worn out brake rotors on a ’69 Sedan deVille that I was doing some work on.


When getting prices, I couldn’t believe that there was such a difference and after doing a lot of measuring, checking, and all those other things that one does to find a cheaper solution, I found that the Rotors from a ’72 Sedan deVille used the same bearings and had the same Thickness where the Brake Pads sat, and also identical wheel stud pattern. But, the outer diameter of the Grease Seal was larger, but the inner diameter was the same.


As I was in no hurry, I had all the required brake parts for this car sent to me via Surface Parcel Postage from my good friends at San Antonio Brake & Clutch. I ordered ’72 Rotors, ’69 Callipers as I was told that this year used a one-off Caliper, but as I wasn’t in a position, being in Tasmania, I didn’t have the opportunity to compare later ones, but I have my suspicions.


Anyway, when the heavy packages finally arrived, I soon found out that there was a bit of alterations to do to get the rotors on.


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1969 Cadillac RWD Front Disc Brake

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Caliper removed

The trial fit found that firstly, the inner lip on the dust cover stopped the inner bearing from seating in the cup, so off came the cover. Then the bolts holding the Steering Arm and the bottom Caliper Bracket the Stub Axle fouled the small lumps cast into the bearing hub of the rotor.


Simply turning the bolts around, so that the threads were facing inwards solved this problem, so all that was necessary was to trim the lip on the Dust Cover down to a manageable size, but not removing it completely as there needs to be some small lip to aid in strength and stop any possibility of vibrations that might be caused by a flat edge.

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Notice the Threaded ends of the two steering arm bolts are facing outward

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Removed Dust Cover sitting on an original Disc Rotor.

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Same Dust Cover sitting in the same place on the One-piece Rotor.

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Circular mark showing why the Dust Cover won’t fit the same as on the original Rotor.

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Width of the Original lip

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Time to trim, and a 4” Angle Grinder makes short work of the task.

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This is the end result.

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The overall thickness has been reduced to 2.5mm.


Once the Dust Cover is trimmed and back on, ensure that the washers under the Bolt Heads are not pressing on the lip that was left as the nuts are tightened.

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Going back on. Notice the bolts now turned around for clearance.

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This is how it looks prior to repositioning the new One-piece Rotor.


Fitting the Rotors also found that the outer Bearing sits about ¼” further onto the Stub Axle than originally, so it may be necessary, as I found, to use a piece of Emory Cloth to clean up the surface of any lip that was the result of years of road use with the old bearings. This also gives a fresh piece of Stub Axle to ride on, and not a slightly worn piece further out.


Now, there is one more thing to do before installing the nut and cotter pin. And, that is to select a couple of circular Shims (Washers) to take up the difference that the outer bearing went in, so that Castellated Nut can receive the Cotter Pin within the Castellations. I found that two Shims, about ¼” in total were enough to fill the void.

Pilt

One Piece Rotor in place.

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New Caliper attached, with new pads. Note the added shims behind the castellated nut.


Don’t forget the tanged Thrust Washer that was originally between the bearing and the nut.


Finally, you can either install the ‘69’s Dust Grease Cap, which is a VERY tight fit, or purchase a ’72 Grease Cap


The Rotor rides in the exact same position as the original, so it is just a matter of reinstalling the Caliper, with new pads, and you are ready to hit the roads, and bed in the brakes, and be sure in the knowledge that if you are needing to replace the Rotors again, you will have better availability of getting replacements as the single piece ones were used in a lot more cars, and years, and they are a lot cheaper.


Bruce Reynolds

CLC # 18992

22nd March, 2007


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